Well, its a baby pattern again. I have made a diaper cover, a bib and now its the time for a cute pair of booties for those tiny little feet. Made in matching fabric with his/her dress, nothing can look cuter on your little munchkin than these.
This fabric baby booties pattern gives you the freedom to choose the type, print, and color you like. For the summer months, you can choose canvas for the outer and heavyweight cotton for the lining. You may also use cotton or corduroy for the outer. Sewn-in fleece for the lining, these booties are a perfect pair to keep those tiny feet warm and cozy during the winter months.
This baby booties sewing pattern is meant for babies who have not started toddling. If you wish to make one meant for those unsteady steps, use a jiffy grip for the outer sole. You can also use an extra layer of felt in between the lining and outer sole for that extra thickness.
This is an easier version of one of my earlier fabric booties pattern with straps and other embellishments. In this tutorial, I have made it simpler for beginners and free for all to sew! Templates are available from newborn to 12 months in size.
If you love to see more of my baby patterns, find it here,
Baby Booties Sewing Pattern
- Cotton fabric scraps for the outer sole, heel and upper.
- Cotton fabric scraps in a coordinating (or contrasting) color and print for the sole, heel and upper lining.
- Small pieces of interfacing for the sole and upper.
- 3/8-inch elastic- Requirements specified in the table-2 below
- Booties template.
- Small pieces of jiffy grip (optional).
- Felt Pieces (optional).
- Ornamental buttons (optional).
- Sewing Notions.
|Ages||Finished Lengths (inches)|
|3 to 6 months||8.5|
|6 to 9 months||9|
|9 to 12 months||9|
I suggest you read the entire pattern before starting to get a general idea.
The seam allowance is 3/8 -inch throughout unless otherwise specified.
Take the fabric and the interfacing required for the booties’ outer and lining.
Cut the pattern templates for the upper, sole and heel at the end of this PDF.
You will need:
- Two uppers from the main piece, two from the lining piece and two from the interfacing pieces.
- Two sole pieces from the main fabric, two from the lining and two from the interfacing.
- Two heel pieces from the main fabric and two from the lining.
Keep the templates on the fabric, mark and cut out the pieces. * Note that you will need to transfer the black dots to the pieces.
For the right sole piece, you will have to flip the template horizontally after marking the left sole piece.
You will have your pieces like these.
Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the main upper pieces, following the manufacturer instructions. Make sure to leave equal space all around while fusing.
Repeat the same on the two sole lining pieces.
Take one heel piece and lining and layer them with the right sides together, aligning the edges. Sew them together along the straight upper edge. Repeat with the other set.
Turn over to the right side and press.
Topstitch along the upper edge. Next, sew a straight line, ½-inch below the upper edge to make a casing for the elastic.
Take the required length of elastic, referring to the table-2 above and cut it into two equal halves.
Take one of the elastic pieces and insert it through the casing in the heel using a safety pin.
Secure the ends of the elastic on both sides by sewing back and forth a few times.
Repeat the steps on the other heel piece, lining and elastic.
Next, we attach the heel piece to the main upper piece.
Keep the straight shorter edge of the heel piece, aligned with the straight edge of the main upper piece, with the right sides together and pin. Note that the elasticized edge faces the center.
Do the same with the other shorter edge of the heel piece and pin.
Sew the two pieces together along the pinned edges.
Let’s attach the upper lining to the main upper piece.
Keep the upper lining over the done upper, with the right sides together and aligning the edges. Sew along the straight edge, leaving a ¼-inch seam.
Turn the lining over to the right side, pull out the heel piece tight and you will see that your bootie has started taking shape.
Topstitch along the straight edge of the upper to make it neat and crisp.
Next, we attach the sole lining to the finished upper.
Place the sole lining with the right side facing up and keep the upper over it matching the center markings (dots).
Pin all around, aligning the edges.
Sew around the edge, removing the pins as you go.
- If you would like extra thickness for your sole, you may now cut the felt sole in the size of the main sole piece, keep it under the lining and sew.
Let’s now attach the outer sole piece to the booties.
Take the relevant outer sole piece and keep it over the done upper piece, with the right sides together and matching the center markings (dots).
Pin all around, taking take care to align the edges.
Sew around the edge, leaving a small gap of about 2-inches to turn it inside-out.
Turn the bootie inside- out.
Next, we need to sew the opening closed.
Hand-sew the opening closed using slip-stitch, tucking the raw edges neatly in.
Repeat all the above steps on the other pieces to get the other bootie done.
Our booties are ready.
Pin it for later here,